2000, 2006, 2014 And How GQ Magazine Made These Years Matter To Me.

"Be the first and be the loudest".

This is the advice I give all budding fashion designers as they often seek my advice. Rightly so designers want to protect their work, but how can they? Patent attorneys will take your money to do the paperwork and filing, but it's worthless, it is simply to easy to alter the design minimally enough to render the patent null and void.

In my career as a fashion designer and manufacturer I have had several designs copied by the best in the business, and I along with all others who design have been influenced by someone or something…it's an inevitability.

I have also played the game, over one too many bottles of fine wine, of trying to come up with a word, a term, that would become everyday jargon. Am I and my friends the only ones that have done this? I don't know, but in the past I have made up words to describe one of my designs, to create another category of garment or as we say, to create a new classification.

Somewhere between 1999 and 2001 I created some items that I wanted to be able to have identified by name and worn in a certain way. Although the design itself was not particularly unique, the fabrics used were and more importantly the name for them was. At the time I was living in the Hollywood Hills and the weather particularly lent itself to this garment. It was a cross between a jacket and a shirt, you could wear it alone or over a shirt or knit, easy, what else could it be but a SHACKET?

Five days ago I read on GQ MAgazine about a shacket, as they stated, "Shirt + Jacket = Shacket, but together they're worth more to your fall wardrobe than the sum of their parts." This created mixed emotions, the adage about imitation being the greatest form of flattery only goes so far, after that you want to see your name attached to it, hey, I never claimed modesty. So, I thought I would go searching through some external drives long ago put away. I quickly found two documents, the first is in Italian in a letter to the factory discussing deliveries where it is mentioned to be delivered by February 28, 2001. While in the second document it is mentioned in descriptive terms for what was going to be part of a line book. I've blurred some parts to not mention companies or individuals that may want to remain unnamed at this moment. At the bottom of each document you can see the dates of April 5, 2007 and December 27, 2000 respectively, representing the dates when these documents were last created or modified prior to me using them in this blog, proving two things: one, they were created before GQ used the term, and two, that someone with as many assigned tasks as I had, simply didn't take time off because it was the Holiday week between Christmas and New Year.

besides digging these documents up, I also was curious to do the proverbial Google search to see what I'd find. A listing for shacket, appeared in the Urban Dictionary as you see here, showing the term, the description and the date it was first entered.

The last shacket I designed and manufactured was for Vluxe in a cotton/linen blend as you see it here in a washed & crunched charcoal gray and bright royal blue inside.

There, I got it off my chest, or perhaps I should say, off my shoulders for it to be worn by new designers and customers.

The Emperor And The Designer Have No Clothes.

I'm ready, go ahead and tell me that I just don't get it. but before you do hear me out.

The Fashion industry and the world at large is certainly ever evolving as it should be, we apply words to objects, concepts, entities and so on. We use words so that we can understand each other when we communicate. If we were to use the word "car" we know that we're talking about an automobile, we understand that two cars may look different from one another but we still know they are cars. We wouldn't and shouldn't call something that isn't a car a "car". If and when a car evolves into something beyond what our original definition stands for it should be called something else that more appropriately reflects it. If you invite me to go see a movie, I don't expect to see a play.

You get that? Good!

So, with this in mind I believe that we should re-evaluate Fashion Shows, break them down to no less than two categories and perhaps more and appropriately named them as to appropriately depict the difference between them.

Certainly we can agree that there's fashion shows that exhibit clothes that will actually be produced and sold in clothing stores and then there's fashion shows that exhibit conceptual clothing that look more like costumes in a theatrical production and that at best will only be sold in considerably modified versions of the original.

Here are some examples of what I'm talking about using two Fall 2012 Collections, Thom Browne (top two) and Giorgio Armani (bottom two). Strictly concentrating on the clothing (hair and make-up aside),

it's obvious to see which designer designed for theatrical effect and which one designed with practical salability in mind. I'm not criticizing, I am making what I believe is a valid point.

These are not quirky outfits in the collections, these are very representative of what the collections are.

 I get the role of both, I just don't think they should be labeled in the same manner. After all,  you wouldn't want to be served meatloaf if you ordered a cheeseburger would you?

A Funny Thing Happened On The Way To Italy!

When the concept of Fashion Vacations first reared its beautiful head inside my heart it looked a bit different. The desire to instill an appreciation for the value of beautifully made garments was all I was after, and of course what better place to do it than in Italy. Not only is Italy a country filled with the best art, culinary treats, culture, beautiful vistas and the best clothing this earth has ever known, 

yes I'm partial, but it is a place I know very well, am fluent in its romantic language and a place I have worked in for many years.

So, the Fashion Vacation I envisioned was going to be enjoyed by couples interested in the luxury lifestyle but in particularly that of Italy. Perhaps, I thought, couples or groups of friends, yes more skewed on the female side of the sexes, would be the first to line up for a trip of a lifetime.

To my surprise the payments for the trip weren't as forthcoming as the words of praise were for this sort of adventure by interested parties. My first reaction was that surely I had priced it to high, but then how could it be that people were still traveling around the world, wining and dining if money was an issue? It's all so easy to know what everyone is doing on the social networks today. Had I presented it poorly? So I had several people who's opinion I respected analyze my work and made the necessary corrections...but there weren't many. All of this was happening side by side with the high praises I was receiving from my colleagues in the Fashion Industry. I'm sure you won't find it difficult believing that much Prosecco was consumed trying to wrap my head around this conundrum. Sure, the tendency to exaggerate is not lost on fashionistas, but so does jealousy and cattiness so when no one from the industry had made any disparaging remarks towards this project I knew there had to be more to it.

On a non eventful day about a month ago I received an inquiry by an individual claiming to speak for a group of "industry people" interested in The Fashion Vacation exactly as it had been described. However, and there is always a "however", there were two very important caveats I needed to agree to. 

If you know anything about me it surely must be this: I am extremely curious and extremely passionate. So I was at the edge of my seat to discover what these two caveats might be.

The voice at the other end proceeded to tell me that the original date set by me of December 10, 2011 was a bit early and could I be flexible enough to change it to fit their schedule. But the second request took me aback. "We are a group of executives with a very prominent retailer that are preparing to venture out on our own. As such, we need for you to sign a non-disclosure contract since we can't be seen as doing this before its time." He proceeded to tell me which company they were with and it certainly was a fine pedigree.

What seemed to surprise me almost as much as what I had just been asked, was the realization as to what had really occurred. Those appreciating the Fashion Vacation, were exactly those inside the industry that understood the value in what was being offered. A look behind the scenes that even they, in their current positions, were not at liberty to see. The making of Italian fashion at their very source, get an introduction to the many factories I have built relationships with over the years and of course to do so in the most wonderful surroundings....Italy.

So, a funny thing did indeed happen on the way to Italy,  and tomorrow the journey to Italy will begin filled with non disclosed pure Italian fun.

Ciao!

Punked or True? Yes.

While at dinner with friends last night two beautiful girls approached our table and asked "where we punked or is it true?". My honest response was "yes, you were punked AND it's true". So let me back it up a bit, this would be the flash back in a movie if it were one, of what actually happened earlier in the evening.

While inspecting a less than respectable menu, I kept witnessing a parade of couples and groups of young people entering the restaurant and being seated for dinner. I love to see this, young people enjoying themselves in a civil manner, partaking in dining out as they were about to do.

What caught my attention good, bad or indifferent and to no one's surprise, was their choices in apparel. Let's be sure we understand, those young people I ended up speaking with were all pleasant, fun and willing to have their photograph taken as a contribution to this blog.

The girls, as it is the style de jeur, were wearing cute dresses with beautiful hair and appropriate make-up. The men on the other hand, although they looked clean and freshly showered looked like they might have chosen their next clean golf or boating outfit.

All cute, all very nice people but really?? REALLY? Come on guys!!! A bit of an effort please. I understand you may have preferred to be out at a bar holding a beer instead but follow a simple rule.

IF YOU WOULD WEAR IT GOLFING, BOATING OR AT A BBQ, DON'T WEAR IT OUT AT A RESTAURANT ON A SATURDAY NIGHT.

Look nobody made me the Fashion Police, but I made myself a Fashion Designer and a passionate one at that. Life is filled with do's and dont's, right and wrongs. How do I know I'm right? I just know because this is and has been a large part of my life. By the way, you know who also knew? You see the guy above on the left? When I approached their table, introduced myself and told them I wanted to blog about the way they were dressed, he immediately looked at his shorts and then looked up with that "busted" look that told me he understood.
Guys, do as you will, but respect your women when you go out with them and more importantly, respect yourself.

These guys were very nice and felt unprepared to be photographed, but they had come out this way, perhaps having just come from their backyard pool. In a bit of sympathy, I will say that they were there for what may have been a take out...but still.

As I was leaving this couple walked in and I thought, well there....there is hope. This guy still chose shorts for the Summer night it was, but he looks like he put some thought and care into it. True, not everyone can pull the look, but he did and he looked and felt great. Oh yeah, a couple of women at the bar asked me why I was photographing them as I explained they admitted to having noticed all the couples...and not all for the right reasons, but as it turned out, for the same reason I had noticed them.

I want to thank all the couples for being wonderfully cordial and participating in my passion and fun for the evening, for being good sports and for providing me with fodder for by blog.

Oh yeah back to the beginning, Punked or True? Yes.

PLACEBO ADVERTISING AND THE PILL YOU KEEP SWALLOWING

Believe me, I will get back to more positive matter...ehmmmm as soon as I get done slaying the next dragon.

Among my most peaceful moments are the mornings I linger on my porch reading the paper accompanied by a lovely cup of double espresso. So it is with  increased annoyance that I address this issue.

People have always loved numbing themselves to believe whatever it is they want to believe. Fine I say, I wasn't the anointed one to save the world. But people this is 2011, should you not be in charge of selectively numbing yourself?

Hickey Freeman's ad in the local paper has got me all worked up, I know, it doesn't take much, passion and honesty will do that to you.

They are suggesting that they are offering you, their most respected customer, a sale. Let's do the math shall we? Seeing that they chose to list the prices of suits as an example of the wonderful deals this is what I'll talk about.

THE CLAIM: Suits Original Retail- $1,395 to $3,495


THE DEAL: NOW FACTORY DIRECT $449.99 Or Less


MY QUESTION: If $449.99 is their highest price on sale, surely that must be the suit that retailed the highest at $3,495 is it not?

Even with the assumption that at $449.99 they are giving it to you at cost, and therefore a loss because working for nothing is a loss, this would mean incredible margins at retail.

Do you see my point? If Hickey Freeman sells it to the stores for $499.00 and the retailer sells it for $3,495.00, this means the retailer marks it up  about $3 short of 7 TIMES.

REALLY?!?

Someone is not being honest, the manufacturer or the retailer or both, and YOU should be the first to know. What sickens me more than a company taking a consumer for a fool...is the consumer allowing it.

EDUCATE YOUR SELF...THE PLACEBO PILL YOUR SWALLOWING WON'T HELP YOU.

IF YOU REALLY CARE TO KNOW

This is a topic I've touched on before and will continue to do so until I am well...at least a wonderful shade of Midnight Blue.

"Made in Italy", as you see it on products, was meant to tell the consumer that this was indeed a product made in Italy by skilled workers that worked under internationally accepted labor laws.

This no longer is so, and it hasn't been for many years, as the laws pertaining to this matter shifted in various amounts over time to benefit those that were producing anywhere but in Italy. It hasn't been something in the industry or at government levels that anyone has wanted to talk about. Clearly not a deterrent for me.

Yesterday I stopped at one of America's most prestigious stores, Saks Fifth Avenue. Not to discover something I didn't already know but to gather photographs to make a point for you.

I found three shirts that exemplified my point, a Bruno Cucinelli, a Valentino and one by Isaia. Very well known and respected brands in the Luxury market each in their own way and all sold in the same area of the men's department.

This is a shirt made by ISAIA in the renowned Neapolitan tradition of shirt making. One arrow points to a portion of the logo identifying this as an ISAIA shirt, while the other arrow points to the price of $395.00 which is in keeping with a shirt that is truly Made in Italy and of this quality.

This next shirt is one made by Brunello Cucinelli, a premier Italian producer of garments. You will notice that one arrow points to the label with the logo as well as the "Made in Italy" country of origin declaration required to be in plain sight by the laws of the USA.

The second arrow points to a price tag showing the cost of this shirt at $495.00 which again, is in keeping with the pricing of a quality shirt with a certain amount of details that is truly Made in Italy.

The shirt from Valentino at fist glance appears to be of great value as it is priced at only $225.00 as pointed out by the arrow. Notice however that the country of origin label that is supposed to be readily visible in accordance with the laws is not there. So, where is this shirt made? Is it really made in Italy? Is that why it is so much lower in price?

There is no magic, no voodoo in fashion. There are reasons for the prices we see and the quality of the garments, marketing aside, and sadly, you as a consumer shouldn't expect an average retailer, even a prestigious one, to educate you anymore. Take control yourself....and discover the truth and beautiful garments that are made by true artisans.

As Fashion Tours Go......

As Fashion Tours go.....well wait a second, there aren't any to compare this one to. This is an utterly fresh idea for those that may have wished to truly be a Fashionista insider if not as a career for at least a week in Italy.

Check out the article in the May-June issue of Rochester Magazine.....want to come along?

A Conversation With Nickelson Wooster Of Neiman Marcus

Men's fashion director Nickelson Wooster shows us how to rock a khaki jacket at the office.

The above picture and tag line was a post on the Neiman Marcus Facebook page. As social networks go this is done to generate conversations with an audience. Below in italics is the comment  I, among others, left for this wonderful and prestigious iconic establishment and their Men's fashion director Nickelson Wooster. So in fun, in the interest of fashion and the extension of conversation, here it is......


The Tan/Khaki cotton suit is a Spring & Summer classic, no doubt. I do like that he's wearing it with a blue shirt as that khaki and blue combo ALWAYS works....well 'till it doesn't work. 

Sorry Nickelson but I only have this picture to go on and since these posts are put up to generate conversation, I will converse.


In the photograph the shirt doesn't come up "rich" enough, again, it's difficult to tell here, but a pinpoint oxford or a chambray would have made this look go further if it also offered a slightly more definitive "blue".


The fact that you chose not to button your button down collar is interesting but it if you're trying for that "I am a country gentleman" look, it is best done without a tie. Clearly this is not a situation of having overlooked it because you prized cattle had broken through the fence in northern Scotland and you were distracted. I say "clearly" because your look is a thought out one down to the detail in the placement of the tie bar where it creates just enough of a curvature to the tie that not only gives it depth but allows the light to refract accordingly along the different parts of the curvature.


All in all a 7.5 out of 10.........no one asked, and I don't expect a job offer to come any time soon, I'm just sayin'

Porch Perfect-----Pomagranate Prosecco

So the season is approaching, not fast enough but I can feel it. Soon I will be on my porch lounging and sipping on one of my favorites.....Prosecco.

The one thing I love is that I can share it with you on or off my porch, so here it is, my first of several Porch Perfect cocktails.

POMEGRANATE PROSECCO

Mandarins- 8

Pomegranate- Half

Prosecco- 1 Bottle

1) Squeeze the mandarins and filter to remove most of the pulp

2) Pour the mandarin juice into a carafe and add the pomegranate seeds and Prosecco

3) Stir and serve in a cocktail glass

A Fashion Lookbook

A quick look at some past work as some of you have shown interest. This collection was split into three groups: Martini, Cafe` and Relax in essence describing the Lifestyle that the garments might be suited for. The grouping was used as a way to give direction to the retailers while each individual wearer gives it his own spin.

Some Past work Portfolio 2

View more presentations from alwaysgetLucky.

DETAILS

Life it seems...is in the details.

I've known this for a while. I learned it as a child of a Master Tailor and a Seamstress, in the care they put into their work. Reflected in every stitch was pride, giving, love, passion and this...this told me a lot about them as people. I wish I had learned it early on, as early as my first spoken words, so that I might have been able to verbally express my gratitude right there and then. Instead, I also learned that appreciation for the details wasn't merely a gift that could or should be handed over, if it were, I am sure my parents would have gladly given it to me. They gave me this gift just the same and perhaps, the way it is meant to be given...by living an exemplary life.

I watched with amazement as a bolt of cloth could turn into a garment. I watched the garment's worth "split" to bring pride to both to the maker and the wearer. As a child I strolled the boulevards of the seashore city of my birth, Tripoli,  I saw the joy in the wearer and his wife as they too strolled with a step that might have otherwise had a lesser bounce. This was infectious and it spread to everyone that came in contact with what was....a piece of cloth, some buttons and thread in the hands of those that gave me the gift of detail.

In my work today, as in my life, I try to instill that same detail which of course means so much more than one might think off at first glance... but then, life is in the details.